Bugs:

Roaches

American cockroach

The American cockroach, Periplaneta americana (Linnaeus), is the largest of the common peridomestic cockroaches measuring on average 4 cm in length. It occurs in buildings throughout Florida especially in commercial buildings. In the northern United States the cockroach is mainly found in steam heat tunnels or large institutional buildings. The American cockroach is second only to the German cockroach in abundance



Asian cockroach

The Asian cockroach was identified as a newly introduced species to the United States in 1986 when a professional pest control operator collected these insects in Lakeland, Florida. He referred to them as German cockroaches, Blattella germanica (L.), but noted that their behavior was unlike any other German cockroaches that he had previously encountered. Upon further investigation the cockroaches were found to be B. asahinai, Asian cockroaches.



German cockroach

The German cockroach is the cockroach of concern, the species that gives all other cockroaches a bad name. It occurs in structures throughout Florida, and is the species that typically plagues multifamily dwellings. In Florida, the German cockroach may be confused with the Asian cockroach, Blattella asahinai Mizukubo. While these cockroaches are very similar, there are some differences that a practiced eye can discern. 



oriental cockroach

The origin of the oriental cockroach, Blatta orientalis Linnaeus, is uncertain, but it is thought to be from Africa or south Russia. It is a major household pest in parts of the northwest, mid-west, and southern United States. It is also sometimes referred to as the "black beetle" or a "water bug" because of its dark black appearance and tendency to harbor in damp locations. 


Ants

Florida carpenter ant

The Florida carpenter ant complex is comprised of several species, two of which are common around structures: Camponotus floridanus (Buckley) and Camponotus tortuganus (Emery). These bicolored arboreal ants are among the largest ants found in Florida, making them apparent as they forage or fly indoors and out.





Crazy Ant

Over the last few years reports have escalated of a golden-brown to reddish-brown "crazy ant" infesting properties in and around West Palm Beach, Florida. Thick foraging trails with thousands of ants occur along sidewalks, around buildings, and on trees and shrubs. Pest control operators using liquid and/or granular broad-range insecticides appear unable to control this nuisance ant.



Little Fire Ant

Prior to the advent of chlorinated hydrocarbons, organophosphates, and carbamates the little fire ant, Wasmannia auropunctata (Roger), was a problem in Florida. The use of persistent pesticide chemicals reduced the populations of the ants until they were no longer a menace. With the reduction in the use of these persistent pesticide chemicals populations of little fire ants have been allowed to increase, and in some areas, to develop into a serious problem. 


Pharaoh ant

The ant, Monomorium pharaonis (Linnaeus), is commonly known as the Pharaoh ant. The name possibly arises from the mistaken tradition that it was one of the plagues of ancient Egypt (Peacock et al. 1950). This ant is distributed worldwide, is one of the more common household ants, and carries the dubious distinction of being the most difficult household ant to control.

Other

European earwig

The European earwig, Forficula auricularia Linnaeus 1758, is intercepted in Florida frequently in bundles of plants and shrubbery, in cut flowers, and in florists' equipment arriving from the western United States. This insect is spread largely by man. Spread by natural means is limited because earwigs seldom fly and cannot maintain flight very long. It has not yet become established in Florida, but it has the potential to do so, at least in the northern part of the state. This earwig was recorded first in the United States at Newport, Rhode Island in 1911 (Jones 1917). Jones (1917) reported a small colony from Seattle, Washington in 1915. Later evidence indicated that it first invaded North America somewhere on the west coast in the early 1900s. Eventually it became widespread in the New England and Middle Atlantic states and throughout most of the western states, especially where there is abundant rainfall or irrigation to provide moisture and food. It became the dominant species of earwig in most of these areas.


Mason wasps of Florida

The genus Zethus is in the subfamily Eumeninae, which contains the mason and potter wasps. However, many Zethus species typically make their nests in twigs and branches (Porter 1978) using old insect burrows, although ground nesting is also common.

Members of the genus Zethus are widespread throughout the New World tropics. According to Bohart and Stange (1965) there are 189 recognized species in the Western Hemisphere, with the greatest number in the Brazilian region of South America. However, Porter (1978) lists only 187 in the same area. Arnett (2000) and Porter (1978) list seven species in America north of Mexico, two of which occur in Florida.

Z. spinipes Say has two subspecies found in the eastern United States, and Z. slossonae Fox is known from southern Florida. Zethus are easily mistaken for potter wasps (Eumenes) commonly found around the home. Unlike Eumenes spp. which build nests of mud, Zethus use either abandoned burrows of other insects or build nests from vegetable matter and resin. 


Yellowjackets and Hornets

Only two of the 16 Nearctic species of Vespula are known from Florida (Miller 1961). These are the two yellowjackets: eastern yellowjacket, V. maculifrons (Buysson), and the southern yellowjacket, V. squamosa (Drury). One species of Dolichovespula is also present: the baldfaced hornet, D. maculata (Linnaeus). The baldfaced hornet is actually a yellowjacket. It receives its common name of baldfaced from its largely black color but mostly white face, and that of hornet because of its large size and aerial nest. In general, the term "hornet" is used for species which nest above ground and the term "yellowjacket" for those which make subterranean nests. All species are social, living in colonies of hundreds to thousands of individuals.



The Photos and information above were provided by the University of Florida



For information on local spiders visit the University of Florida spider page.




FLEAS
 

Egg

Larvae

Pupa

Adult

Egg

larvae

pupa

adult

 
Flea Protection
 
Did you know that the flea has killed more people than all the wars in human history? It's true. The pest that irritates your dogs and cats so much can spread the bubonic plague that killed one-fourth of Europe's population during the 14th Century. In fact, pests are known to transmit 15 major disease-causing organisms. They also spread hundreds of other organisms which can make your life miserable.

Fleas thrive in Florida’s temperate climate and are not only introduced into yards as parasites on cats and dogs, but also on various other hosts such as squirrels, raccoons, rats, mice, and bats.  They feed upon external body surfaces much like their relatives: ticks, lice, bedbugs, chiggers, mites, flies and mosquitoes. Fleas survive by sucking the blood of their hosts; and, although they prefer dogs and cats, they also attack humans.

Fleas reproduce very rapidly and abundantly. They go through a complete metamorphosis which means there are four stages of life: egg, larval, pupa and adult. One of the most important reasons why fleas can be so difficult to control is because they are resistant to insecticides while in both the egg and pupal stages. The pupal stage generally lasts from 7 to 10 days, but if there is no host around, the adult flea can survive, dormant, in the cocoon for up to six months. Another control issue is that they often develop down in carpet fibers and cracks/crevices where they can remain somewhat protected from the chemical applications.

A successful curative flea control program requires the coordination of several steps: site preparation, pet treatment, and home/yard application of insect control products. For site preparation, you will need to completely expose the entire floor surface in the treatment areas by removing any items from the floor, perhaps even in the areas under beds and in closets (particularly if your pets sleeps or rests there). This will clear out the area and allow for a thorough cleaning and effective insecticide treatment in any place where the fleas might be found. Vacuum all carpeting/rugs, furniture and around favorite pet areas daily. Remove and dispose of the vacuum bag immediately. This process will remove dirt/debris and allow for the treatment to better reach fleas down in the carpet fibers. Also, this process actually removes some of the flea eggs and adult fleas. In addition, the vacuum cleaner can provide a source of vibration which stimulates fleas to emerge from the pupal stage into adults, making them susceptible to the insecticide application while the chemical residual is still most active. It’s also important to either discard or wash (in hot water) all pet bedding or affected linens. For treatment of substructure areas (i.e., such as may be necessary under mobile homes, decks, etc.), crawlspaces, or yards, if at all possible, everything needs to be picked up to allow the ground surface to be thoroughly treated. Also, to further allow for flea exposure to the chemical, the yard should be completely groomed---grass mowed and leaves raked up.

Pet treatment needs to be done at about the same time as the insecticide application to prevent re-infestation from either the pet or premises. There are several safe and highly effective flea/tick control products currently available to help maintain an excellent long-term pet protection program. Consult with your veterinarian in order to determine the best product for your particular pet.

A good professional pest control operator will provide the best flea control value as they will have the expertise to provide the consultation and proper insecticide application which will ensure safe and effective results. After discussing the problem details with you, a good technician will quickly determine the best treatment strategy, know where to concentrate the treatment in a careful application, and be able to select the best products for your particular situation.

The insecticide mixture used will perhaps consist of a combination of several advanced and relatively-safe chemicals including fast-acting natural pyrethrins, a residual adulticide, and an insect growth regulator (IGR). The IGR is perhaps the most important component as it greatly extends the control because it mimics natural juvenile hormones and will therefore inhibit juvenile development of the fleas between the egg and pupal stages. Because the fleas contacting this material die before they ever reach adulthood, the IGR effectively breaks the reproductive cycle. Other types of IGRs actually sterilize fleas to provide the same extended control effect. Some examples of very effective IGRs are Precor (methoprene) and pyriproxyfen products. All of the most effective available insecticides are photosensitive to some extent (some much more than others) and therefore the dry residuals will not remain effective enough to control any re-infestations for longer than a few months, even indoors where protected from the weather elements and hence not exposed to much direct sunlight and rain.

The product formulation selected should provide for minimal possibility of any type of airborne contamination. However, as a general precaution, it is usually recommended that the treated area is well-ventilated and all people/pets vacate the premises, avoiding the treated areas until about two hours after the application or until the treated surfaces are completely dry. Any fish tanks, other pet aquariums, or bird cages should be covered prior to application. Because of the flea biology involving protected pupae emerging into adults perhaps days-to-weeks after the initial treatment, in order to expedite complete control, a moderate-to-severe flea infestation may require a follow-up treatment about 10 days later. Your technician should help you take care of the problem as quickly as possible and provide you with the best regular service program for proper maintenance.

We include necessary flea treatment as part of a general home pest control program for little or no additional expense to you as the customer. Also, in order to help maintain the control of fleas and other pests such as roaches, ants, and spiders, we provide an exterior home perimeter treatment as a part of your regular service. This consists of a partial yard treatment in a band around the home extending out about 10 feet.  However, a high level of flea persistence may require a complete yard treatment along with your home service for adequate total control. We provide this additional service at a reduced rate if combined with home service on the same visit. The yard treatment also controls other pests such as fire ants.
 
Complete pest protection is very important to ensure the safety and comfort of your family and pets.
For free consultation to help you with any necessary planning and preparation needed for a successful flea control program, call the professionals at Spears Environmental Pest Control at 682-5354.

 
RODENTS

Mice


The house mouse (Mus musculus) is native to Central Asia, and was brought to North America by ships from Europe and other points of origin. The house mouse is a very adaptable animal, which thrives under a variety of conditions. They are found in and around homes, and commercial structures, as well as in open fields and agricultural lands. The house mouse is a nibbler and will sample many foods, but prefers to eat cereals and grains. They consume and contaminate food meant for humans, pets, livestock or other animals. In addition to damaging structures and property they can also transmit pathogens that cause disease, like salmonellosis (a form of food poisoning).

Mice are very small rodents, the adult house mouse is about 5 1/2 to 7 1/2 inches long including the 3 to 4 inch tail. They weight only about 1/2 ounce, and are usually brownish to gray in color. They can fit in a crack of only about a quarter inch. They have large ears and small black eyes. Mice are mostly active at night, but occasionally will be seen during the day. Mouse nests are made from shredded paper or other fibrous material. The house mouse has a distinct musky odor that identifies their presence. Droppings, gnawing marks, and tracks will indicate areas that mice are active. Sanitation will not completely control mice, however poor sanitation will help them thrive in larger numbers. Exclusion is the most successful and permanent form of house mouse control.



Rats 

Rats are some of the most problematic rodents in the US. They consume and contaminate food, damage structures and property, and transmit parasites and diseases to other animals and humans. Some examples of diseases that can be spread by both rats and mice are salmonellosis (acute food poisoning), Rickettsia Pox, Hantavirus (via droppings), tapeworm, infectious jaundice, and tularemia. It has been reported that rats bite more than fifteen thousand people per year including the both the very young and old. They scamper through your attic and walls, keeping you awake at night, and they often chew their way through drywall and enter the home to contaminate food and leave droppings. They like to chew and gnaw everything and create a fire hazard by chewing on electrical wires.

Norway Rats (Rattus Norvegicus)


The Norway Ratsaka brown rat or the sewer rats, they are stocky burrowing rodents that are larger than roof rats. The Norway rat is large and robust, with a blunt muzzle, small ears, and is mostly gray in color. They burrow along building foundations, under rubbish and woodpiles and in moist areas around gardens and fields. When they invade a structure, they generally stay at ground level or the basement. Their nests are usually lined with cloth, shredded paper, or fibrous materials. Norway rats eat a wide variety of foods but prefer to eat cereal grains, meats, fish, nuts and some fruits. When scavenging for food and water, the Norway rat usually does not travel further than 100-150 feet in diameter, seldom do they travel further than 300 feet from their burrow or nest. Norway rats and roof rats do not get along. The Norway rat is larger than a roof rat, and the more dominant of the two species, it will kill a roof rat in a fight. The Norway rat has an average of four to six litters per year and may successfully wean 20 or more offspring per year. Norway rats are found throughout the contiguous United States.

Roof Rats (Rattus rattus)

Roof ratsare slightly smaller than the Norway Rats and are sometimes called the black rats. Unlike Norway rats, their tails are longer than their heads and bodies combined. Roof rats are very agile climbers and usually live and nest above ground in shrubs, trees and dense vegetation. Roof rats are sleek, have a pointed muzzle, long ears, and are grey to white in color. When they invade structures, they are most often found in the attics, walls, false ceilings and cabinets. The Roof rat also eats a wide variety of foods, but mostly prefers to eat fruits, nuts, grain products, pet food, berries, insects, slugs and snails. Roof rats also enjoy eating fresh fruit still on the trees. When scavenging for food and water, the roof rat routinely travels to up 300 feet. Roof rats have an excellent sense of balance and use their long tails for balance while traveling along utility lines. They move much faster than the Norway rat and are very agile climbers, which helps them quickly escape predators. The roof rat has about three to five litters each year, having five to eight offspring per litter. The roof rat has a more limited geographical range; they prefer ocean-influenced, warmer climates. Both Norway and Roof rats gain entry to structures by gnawing, climbing, jumping, or swimming through sewers and entering through the toilet or broken drains. The Norway rat is a much better swimmer while the Roof rat is more agile and a better climber. Rats, especially young rats (young rats are often confused with the house mouse), can squeeze through a gap of only 1/2 inch.
 
TERMITES

There are about 2000 known species of termites throughout the world. In the U.S., Subterranean Termites, including Eastern, Western, Desert and Formosans, which build underground nests, are a concern in every state except Alaska. Subterranean termites are extremely destructive, because they tunnel their way to wooden structures (like your home), into which they burrow to obtain food. Termites all share a virtually insatiable appetite for wood and other cellulose-containing materials. Given enough time, they will feed on the wood until nothing is left but a shell.

Learn more...

A Caste of Hundreds of Thousands
Termites are highly social insects that live in large colonies where populations can reach more than one million. A colony consists of several structurally differentiated forms living together as castes (including reproductives, soldiers, and workers) with different functions in community life.

In the spring, winged reproductives leave the parental nest in swarms to create a new colony. The swarming lasts less than an hour, so it's very likely you'll never even see it. The winged reproductives themselves look quite a bit like flying ants, for which they are often mistaken.

Those "Ants" Might be Termites

Both ants and termites have two pairs of wings, but ants' wings are different sizes while the termites' wings are all the same size. Also, ants have narrowed waists and elbowed antennae while termites have thick waists and short, straight antennae that resemble strings of beads. Don't be fooled by color or size. Ants can vary in size, and winged termites can be brown or black like ants.

Look for Signs
You're more likely to discover you have a termite problem by discovering the evidence they leave behind rather than the actual termites themselves. If you encounter any of these telltale signs, there's a good chance termites are busy snacking on your home:
  • Piles of small, delicate wings shed by reproductives
  • Small piles of sawdust
  • Mud tubes built by termites for aboveground travel
  • Damaged or hollow sounding wood
  • Pinholes in drywall or wallpaper

Of course, it's quite possible to have a hidden termite problem even if you never notice any of these signs. The best way to be sure is to contact a licensed pest control professionalto conduct a complete inspection of your home….

Eastern Subterranean Termites

The Eastern Subterranean termite is the most common and most widely distributed termite in North America. It is a problem for home owners from southern Ontario in Canada, south throughout the Eastern United States and as far west as Montana.

This native American pest feeds on such cellulose materials as structural wood, wood fixtures, paper, books, and cotton. Occasionally, it will even attack the roots of shrubs and trees.

A mature colony of Eastern Subterranean termites can range from a low of 20,000 to a high of 5 million workers, with an average of 300,000. The colony's queen will add 5,000 to 10,000 eggs per year to the total.

While Eastern Sub termite colonies are not the largest termite colonies you can find, there will often be more than one of them working in a single building. Signs of Easterns include dirt-colored tubes built to serve as protected paths from the earth to the wood the termites are feeding on, and the translucent wings shed by the kings and queens during swarming. Swarming usually occurs in the spring, but other, smaller swarms can occur throughout the summer and fall.
Some quick facts about Eastern Subs

  • An average Eastern Sub termite colony can consume 5 grams of wood per day, the equivalent of 2 1/3 linear feet of a 2'x4' pine board annually.
  • Colony growth is slow, and it may take years before swarmers are produced.
  • Eastern Sub termites can enter buildings through cracks less than 1/16" wide.
  • The termite colony is made up of different types (castes) of termites - each with separate work responsibilities.
  • Although Eastern Sub termite colonies are largely located in the ground below the frost line, secondary colonies can exist above ground, and examples of true above ground colonies existing without any ground contact have been seen. However, such above ground colonies have access to moisture and often the source is a roof or plumbing leak.
  • Eastern Sub termites will often build mud tubes for travel between their colonies and their food sources.
  • The king and queen in a colony can live for 10 to 30 years, while workers live for about two years.

Formosan Subterranean Termites

Formosan termites are one of several termite species that threaten homes and other structures in Hawaii and the southern half of the continental United States.

Originally from mainland China, Formosans have been established in the continental U.S. for only about 50 years. Unfortunately, they are more vigorous and aggressive and successful than native termites. In fact, the Formosan termite has been called the "Super" termite because of its large colonies and its ability to consume vast amounts of wood in a relatively short time.

A mature colony of Formosan termites can number in the millions and consume as much as 13 ounces of wood per day. As a result, Formosans can severely damage a structure in as little as three months. Formosan termites are most visible during their annual mating flight. However, they actually cause more damage after the swarm is over. For this reason, it's extremely important to start a control program as soon as you find out that you have Formosan termites on your property.

Some quick facts about Formosan termites
  • Formosan colonies are big. While native subterranean termite colonies might support an average of 300,000 workers, for example, Formosan colonies can average millions of workers - all of them foraging for food (wood).
  • A typical colony of Formosan termites could forage an area more than one acre in diameter.
  • As Formosans infest a structure, they use soil and wood cemented together with saliva and feces to build hard nests called cartons within walls. Large cartons can actually cause walls to bulge. These nests house thousands of termites as well as hold moisture. Once established, Formosans can live indefinitely without soil contact.
  • Formosan termites can also infest and destroy otherwise healthy trees.
  • Swarmers are larger than native species, and they swarm in the evening and later in the year (May-June).
  • Soldiers comprise about 10% of the colony.
  • Formosans will even attack and destroy non-wood materials. They have been known to chew through plaster, plastics, asphalt, and even thin sheets of soft metals like lead and copper.
  • Queens can produce 1,000 eggs a day.

Whatever the species, Termidor® termiticide/insecticide is your answer

Fortunately, there is a solution to even big termite problems like those posed by Formosans: It's Termidor, the world's most amazing termiticide.

Through seven years of testing, Termidor has repeatedly proven itself to be 100% effective against subterranean termites, including Formosans, in even the most challenging situations. It will completely eliminate your termites within 3 months of application. No exceptions. No excuses.

Termidor is a non-repellent

If a termiticide is non-repellent, that means the termites can't see it, smell it, or feel it. In fact, they don't know it's there at all. As a result, they'll continue to forage in treated areas. That might alarm you, but it's a good thing. Termites that are active in areas that have been treated with Termidor are helping to spread Termidor to more termites; they are helping the termiticide do its job. Rest assured that in a short time all the termites - those you see and those you don't - will be controlled.

Remember, Termidor kills in two ways

First, Termidor kills termites when they eat it (since they don't know it's there, they readily ingest it along with the wood fiber and other material they typically eat). Second, Termidor kills termites that simply come into contact with it. So, even if your termites are not feeding, Termidor will kill them.

Termites that come into contact with Termidor will also carry it on their bodies. As a result, every other termite they contact, feed, or groom will also be exposed to Termidor. All these termites will in turn transfer the termiticide to still more termites. This will go on for several days, allowing Termidor to be spread throughout the entire colony.

This unique mode of action is known as the "Transfer Effect™". At the same time, the active ingredient in Termidor, fipronil, is slow acting. That's a very good thing for you, and a very bad thing for the Formosan colony. Why? Because Termidor remains active long enough for one termite to transfer the termiticide to a large number of other termites in the colony before dying itself. And although the Termidor effect on individual termites is intentionally slow, the overall colony impact is fast: It can be 2-6 times faster than bait systems.

What to expect after application

Certainly, every home is different, so the specifics of your Termidor treatment and results will depend on your home's age, configuration, construction, and level of infestation. Your Termidor Certified Professional will explain the best procedure for your situation. The entire application program is typically complete in a day or less; however, you may see some evidence of termite activity for several days afterward. That's okay. Rest assured that Termidor is working, and its unique ingestion, contact, and "Transfer Effect" will eliminate termites from your home. Remember, responsible termite control demands periodic inspections by a licensed pest management professional.

If you believe your home may be in danger form Formosan Subterranean Termites, contact a Termidor pest control professional now.

Termite Prevention Tips


When it comes to gaining access to your home, termites are amazingly proficient. The last thing you want to do is make their job easier. Follow these 3 steps to effective Termite Defense and make sure that your home doesn't become their home or contact a Termidor Certified Professional immediately.

Step 1: Get professional help

Small holes in wood, crumbling drywall, sagging doors or floors, insect wings, and small mud tubes are some of the more obvious potential signs of termites. But even if you don't notice any of these signs, that doesn't necessarily mean termites, or the conditions that invite them, aren't there.
Regular inspections by a licensed pest professional are the only way to ensure your home truly is, and remains, free from termites and the damage that they cause. Qualified pest professionals have the training in termite biology and behavior to identify, prevent, and treat termite problems. A pest professional will perform a thorough inspection of your home to determine if, where, and how termites are getting in. They can also explain how to correct any conditions in your home that invite termites.
 
For example:
  • Don't affix wooden trellises to exterior walls.
  • Keep mulch, wood debris, scrap lumber, sawdust, and firewood away from your home. If you do keep firewood outside your house during the winter, keep it raised off the ground.
  • Trim all shrubs, bushes and other dense greenery away from the foundation of your home. Move mulch away from the foundation as well.
  • Don't bury wood debris near your home.
  • Remove infested trees and stumps.
  • Repair leaking faucets and water lines, both indoors and outdoors.
  • Fix leaky roofs and gutters.
  • Don't allow leaves to accumulate in gutters and drains.
  • Grade soil so that water (including air conditioning condensate) runs away from foundations.
  • Ventilate crawl spaces and attics to reduce humidity.
  • Cover at least 90% of the soil in crawl spaces with plastic sheeting.
  • Ideally, wood siding, stucco, and foam board should be at least six inches away from the ground.
  • Seal all cracks and holes in your home's foundation, which may provide a handy access point for termites.
Step 2: Employ the best defense: Termidor™

If the inspection reveals termites, your pest professional can get rid of them and keep them from returning. If your home is currently free of termites, congratulations! Now, it's time for your pest professional to take preventative action to ensure it stays that way. For the fastest, most effective way to address either situation, your pest professional will recommend Termidor®, America's #1 Termite Defense Product.

Step 3: Schedule regular professional check-ups
A clean bill of health from a doctor today doesn't mean it's not important for you to get regular check-ups in the future. Your home after a Termidor treatment is no different. Regular check-ups by your pest professional will make sure Termidor continues to do its job, and that your home remains termite-free for as long as you live there.




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Spears Environmental, Inc.
4840 S. Ferdon Blvd.
Crestview, FL 32536
Email: spearsinc@cox.net