Fleas thrive in Florida’s temperate climate and
are not only introduced into yards as parasites on cats and dogs, but
also on various other hosts such as squirrels, raccoons, rats, mice,
and bats. They feed upon external body surfaces much like their
relatives: ticks, lice, bedbugs, chiggers, mites, flies and mosquitoes.
Fleas survive by sucking the blood of their hosts; and, although they
prefer dogs and cats, they also attack humans.
Fleas reproduce very rapidly and abundantly. They
go through a complete metamorphosis which means there are four stages
of life: egg, larval, pupa and adult. One of the most important reasons
why fleas can be so difficult to control is because they are resistant
to insecticides while in both the egg and pupal stages. The pupal stage
generally lasts from 7 to 10 days, but if there is no host around, the
adult flea can survive, dormant, in the cocoon for up to six months.
Another control issue is that they often develop down in carpet fibers
and cracks/crevices where they can remain somewhat protected from the
chemical applications.
A successful curative flea control program requires the coordination of several steps: site preparation, pet treatment, and home/yard application of insect control products. For site preparation,
you will need to completely expose the entire floor surface in the
treatment areas by removing any items from the floor, perhaps even in
the areas under beds and in closets (particularly if your pets sleeps
or rests there). This will clear out the area and allow for a thorough
cleaning and effective insecticide treatment in any place where the
fleas might be found. Vacuum all carpeting/rugs, furniture and around
favorite pet areas daily. Remove and dispose of the vacuum bag
immediately. This process will remove dirt/debris and allow for the
treatment to better reach fleas down in the carpet fibers. Also, this
process actually removes some of the flea eggs and adult fleas. In
addition, the vacuum cleaner can provide a source of vibration which
stimulates fleas to emerge from the pupal stage into adults, making
them susceptible to the insecticide application while the chemical
residual is still most active. It’s also important to either discard or
wash (in hot water) all pet bedding or affected linens. For treatment
of substructure areas (i.e., such as may be necessary under mobile
homes, decks, etc.), crawlspaces, or yards, if at all possible,
everything needs to be picked up to allow the ground surface to be
thoroughly treated. Also, to further allow for flea exposure to the
chemical, the yard should be completely groomed---grass mowed and
leaves raked up.
Pet treatment needs to be done
at about the same time as the insecticide application to prevent
re-infestation from either the pet or premises. There are several safe
and highly effective flea/tick control products currently available to
help maintain an excellent long-term pet protection program. Consult
with your veterinarian in order to determine the best product for your
particular pet.
A good professional pest control operator will
provide the best flea control value as they will have the expertise to
provide the consultation and proper insecticide application which will
ensure safe and effective results. After discussing the problem details
with you, a good technician will quickly determine the best treatment
strategy, know where to concentrate the treatment in a careful
application, and be able to select the best products for your
particular situation.
The insecticide mixture used will perhaps consist
of a combination of several advanced and relatively-safe chemicals
including fast-acting natural pyrethrins, a residual adulticide, and an
insect growth regulator (IGR). The IGR is perhaps the most important
component as it greatly extends the control because it mimics natural
juvenile hormones and will therefore inhibit juvenile development of
the fleas between the egg and pupal stages. Because the fleas
contacting this material die before they ever reach adulthood, the IGR
effectively breaks the reproductive cycle. Other types of IGRs actually
sterilize fleas to provide the same extended control effect. Some
examples of very effective IGRs are Precor (methoprene) and
pyriproxyfen products. All of the most effective available insecticides
are photosensitive to some extent (some much more than others) and
therefore the dry residuals will not remain effective enough to control
any re-infestations for longer than a few months, even indoors where
protected from the weather elements and hence not exposed to much
direct sunlight and rain.
The product formulation selected should provide
for minimal possibility of any type of airborne contamination. However,
as a general precaution, it is usually recommended that the treated
area is well-ventilated and all people/pets vacate the premises,
avoiding the treated areas until about two hours after the application
or until the treated surfaces are completely dry. Any fish tanks, other
pet aquariums, or bird cages should be covered prior to application.
Because of the flea biology involving protected pupae emerging into
adults perhaps days-to-weeks after the initial treatment, in order to
expedite complete control, a moderate-to-severe flea infestation may
require a follow-up treatment about 10 days later. Your technician
should help you take care of the problem as quickly as possible and
provide you with the best regular service program for proper
maintenance.
We include necessary flea treatment as part of a
general home pest control program for little or no additional expense
to you as the customer. Also, in order to help maintain the control of
fleas and other pests such as roaches, ants, and spiders, we provide an
exterior home perimeter treatment as a part of your regular service.
This consists of a partial yard treatment in a band around the home
extending out about 10 feet. However, a high level of flea persistence
may require a complete yard treatment along with your home service for
adequate total control. We provide this additional service at a reduced
rate if combined with home service on the same visit. The yard
treatment also controls other pests such as fire ants.
Complete pest protection is very important to ensure the safety and comfort of your family and pets.
For
free consultation to help you with any necessary planning and
preparation needed for a successful flea control program, call the
professionals at Spears Environmental Pest Control at 682-5354.
RODENTS
Mice
The house mouse
(Mus musculus) is native to Central Asia, and was brought to North
America by ships from Europe and other points of origin. The house
mouse is a very adaptable animal, which thrives under a variety of
conditions. They are found in and around homes, and commercial
structures, as well as in open fields and agricultural lands. The house
mouse is a nibbler and will sample many foods, but prefers to eat
cereals and grains. They consume and contaminate food meant for humans,
pets, livestock or other animals. In addition to damaging structures
and property they can also transmit pathogens that cause disease, like
salmonellosis (a form of food poisoning).
Mice
are very small rodents, the adult house mouse is about 5 1/2 to 7 1/2
inches long including the 3 to 4 inch tail. They weight only about 1/2
ounce, and are usually brownish to gray in color. They can fit in a
crack of only about a quarter inch. They have large ears and small
black eyes. Mice are mostly active at night, but occasionally will be
seen during the day. Mouse nests are made from shredded paper or other
fibrous material. The house mouse has a distinct musky odor that
identifies their presence. Droppings, gnawing marks, and tracks will
indicate areas that mice are active. Sanitation will not completely
control mice, however poor sanitation will help them thrive in larger
numbers. Exclusion is the most successful and permanent form of house
mouse control.
Rats
Rats
are some of the most problematic rodents in the US. They consume and
contaminate food, damage structures and property, and transmit
parasites and diseases to other animals and humans. Some examples of
diseases that can be spread by both rats and mice are salmonellosis
(acute food poisoning), Rickettsia Pox, Hantavirus (via droppings),
tapeworm, infectious jaundice, and tularemia. It has been reported that
rats bite more than fifteen thousand people per year including the both
the very young and old. They scamper through your attic and walls,
keeping you awake at night, and they often chew their way through
drywall and enter the home to contaminate food and leave droppings.
They like to chew and gnaw everything and create a fire hazard by
chewing on electrical wires.
Norway Rats (Rattus Norvegicus)
The
Norway Ratsaka brown rat or the sewer rats, they are stocky burrowing
rodents that are larger than roof rats. The Norway rat is large and
robust, with a blunt muzzle, small ears, and is mostly gray in color.
They burrow along building foundations, under rubbish and woodpiles and
in moist areas around gardens and fields. When they invade a structure,
they generally stay at ground level or the basement. Their nests are
usually lined with cloth, shredded paper, or fibrous materials. Norway
rats eat a wide variety of foods but prefer to eat cereal grains,
meats, fish, nuts and some fruits. When scavenging for food and water,
the Norway rat usually does not travel further than 100-150 feet in
diameter, seldom do they travel further than 300 feet from their burrow
or nest. Norway rats and roof rats do not get along. The Norway rat is
larger than a roof rat, and the more dominant of the two species, it
will kill a roof rat in a fight. The Norway rat has an average of four
to six litters per year and may successfully wean 20 or more offspring
per year. Norway rats are found throughout the contiguous United States.
Roof Rats (Rattus rattus)
Roof
ratsare slightly smaller than the Norway Rats and are sometimes called
the black rats. Unlike Norway rats, their tails are longer than their
heads and bodies combined. Roof rats are very agile climbers and
usually live and nest above ground in shrubs, trees and dense
vegetation. Roof rats are sleek, have a pointed muzzle, long ears, and
are grey to white in color. When they invade structures, they are most
often found in the attics, walls, false ceilings and cabinets. The Roof
rat also eats a wide variety of foods, but mostly prefers to eat
fruits, nuts, grain products, pet food, berries, insects, slugs and
snails. Roof rats also enjoy eating fresh fruit still on the trees.
When scavenging for food and water, the roof rat routinely travels to
up 300 feet. Roof rats have an excellent sense of balance and use their
long tails for balance while traveling along utility lines. They move
much faster than the Norway rat and are very agile climbers, which
helps them quickly escape predators. The roof rat has about three to
five litters each year, having five to eight offspring per litter. The
roof rat has a more limited geographical range; they prefer
ocean-influenced, warmer climates. Both Norway and Roof rats gain entry
to structures by gnawing, climbing, jumping, or swimming through sewers
and entering through the toilet or broken drains. The Norway rat is a
much better swimmer while the Roof rat is more agile and a better
climber. Rats, especially young rats (young rats are often confused
with the house mouse), can squeeze through a gap of only 1/2 inch.
TERMITES
There are about
2000 known species of termites throughout the world. In the U.S.,
Subterranean Termites, including Eastern, Western, Desert and
Formosans, which build underground nests, are a concern in every state
except Alaska. Subterranean termites are extremely destructive, because
they tunnel their way to wooden structures (like your home), into which
they burrow to obtain food. Termites all share a virtually insatiable
appetite for wood and other cellulose-containing materials. Given
enough time, they will feed on the wood until nothing is left but a
shell.
Learn more...
A Caste of Hundreds of Thousands
Termites
are highly social insects that live in large colonies where populations
can reach more than one million. A colony consists of several
structurally differentiated forms living together as castes (including
reproductives, soldiers, and workers) with different functions in
community life.
In the
spring, winged reproductives leave the parental nest in swarms to
create a new colony. The swarming lasts less than an hour, so it's very
likely you'll never even see it. The winged reproductives themselves
look quite a bit like flying ants, for which they are often mistaken.
 Those "Ants" Might be Termites
Both ants and
termites have two pairs of wings, but ants' wings are different sizes
while the termites' wings are all the same size. Also, ants have
narrowed waists and elbowed antennae while termites have thick waists
and short, straight antennae that resemble strings of beads. Don't be
fooled by color or size. Ants can vary in size, and winged termites can
be brown or black like ants. |
Look for Signs
You're
more likely to discover you have a termite problem by discovering the
evidence they leave behind rather than the actual termites themselves.
If you encounter any of these telltale signs, there's a good chance
termites are busy snacking on your home:
-
Piles of small, delicate wings shed by reproductives
-
Small piles of sawdust
-
Mud tubes built by termites for aboveground travel
-
Damaged or hollow sounding wood
-
Pinholes in drywall or wallpaper
Of course, it's
quite possible to have a hidden termite problem even if you never
notice any of these signs. The best way to be sure is to contact a licensed pest control professionalto conduct a complete inspection of your home….
Eastern Subterranean Termites
The Eastern
Subterranean termite is the most common and most widely distributed
termite in North America. It is a problem for home owners from southern
Ontario in Canada, south throughout the Eastern United States and as
far west as Montana.
This native
American pest feeds on such cellulose materials as structural wood,
wood fixtures, paper, books, and cotton. Occasionally, it will even
attack the roots of shrubs and trees.
A mature colony
of Eastern Subterranean termites can range from a low of 20,000 to a
high of 5 million workers, with an average of 300,000. The colony's
queen will add 5,000 to 10,000 eggs per year to the total.
While Eastern
Sub termite colonies are not the largest termite colonies you can find,
there will often be more than one of them working in a single building.
Signs of Easterns include dirt-colored tubes built to serve as
protected paths from the earth to the wood the termites are feeding on,
and the translucent wings shed by the kings and queens during swarming.
Swarming usually occurs in the spring, but other, smaller swarms can
occur throughout the summer and fall.
Some quick facts about Eastern Subs
-
An average
Eastern Sub termite colony can consume 5 grams of wood per day, the
equivalent of 2 1/3 linear feet of a 2'x4' pine board annually.
-
Colony growth is slow, and it may take years before swarmers are produced.
-
Eastern Sub termites can enter buildings through cracks less than 1/16" wide.
-
The termite colony is made up of different types (castes) of termites - each with separate work responsibilities.
-
Although
Eastern Sub termite colonies are largely located in the ground below
the frost line, secondary colonies can exist above ground, and examples
of true above ground colonies existing without any ground contact have
been seen. However, such above ground colonies have access to moisture
and often the source is a roof or plumbing leak.
-
Eastern Sub termites will often build mud tubes for travel between their colonies and their food sources.
-
The king and queen in a colony can live for 10 to 30 years, while workers live for about two years.
Formosan Subterranean Termites
Formosan
termites are one of several termite species that threaten homes and
other structures in Hawaii and the southern half of the continental
United States.
Originally from
mainland China, Formosans have been established in the continental U.S.
for only about 50 years. Unfortunately, they are more vigorous and
aggressive and successful than native termites. In fact, the Formosan
termite has been called the "Super" termite because of its large
colonies and its ability to consume vast amounts of wood in a
relatively short time.
A mature
colony of Formosan termites can number in the millions and consume as
much as 13 ounces of wood per day. As a result, Formosans can severely
damage a structure in as little as three months. Formosan termites are
most visible during their annual mating flight. However, they actually
cause more damage after the swarm is over. For this reason, it's
extremely important to start a control program as soon as you find out
that you have Formosan termites on your property.
Some quick facts about Formosan termites
-
Formosan
colonies are big. While native subterranean termite colonies might
support an average of 300,000 workers, for example, Formosan colonies
can average millions of workers - all of them foraging for food (wood).
-
A typical colony of Formosan termites could forage an area more than one acre in diameter.
-
As Formosans
infest a structure, they use soil and wood cemented together with
saliva and feces to build hard nests called cartons within walls. Large
cartons can actually cause walls to bulge. These nests house thousands
of termites as well as hold moisture. Once established, Formosans can
live indefinitely without soil contact.
-
Formosan termites can also infest and destroy otherwise healthy trees.
-
Swarmers are larger than native species, and they swarm in the evening and later in the year (May-June).
-
Soldiers comprise about 10% of the colony.
-
Formosans
will even attack and destroy non-wood materials. They have been known
to chew through plaster, plastics, asphalt, and even thin sheets of
soft metals like lead and copper.
-
Queens can produce 1,000 eggs a day.
Whatever the species, Termidor® termiticide/insecticide is your answer
Fortunately,
there is a solution to even big termite problems like those posed by
Formosans: It's Termidor, the world's most amazing termiticide.
Through seven
years of testing, Termidor has repeatedly proven itself to be 100%
effective against subterranean termites, including Formosans, in even
the most challenging situations. It will completely eliminate your
termites within 3 months of application. No exceptions. No excuses.
Termidor is a non-repellent
If a
termiticide is non-repellent, that means the termites can't see it,
smell it, or feel it. In fact, they don't know it's there at all. As a
result, they'll continue to forage in treated areas. That might alarm
you, but it's a good thing. Termites that are active in areas that have
been treated with Termidor are helping to spread Termidor to more
termites; they are helping the termiticide do its job. Rest assured
that in a short time all the termites - those you see and those you
don't - will be controlled.
Remember, Termidor kills in two ways
First, Termidor
kills termites when they eat it (since they don't know it's there, they
readily ingest it along with the wood fiber and other material they
typically eat). Second, Termidor kills termites that simply come into
contact with it. So, even if your termites are not feeding, Termidor
will kill them.
Termites that
come into contact with Termidor will also carry it on their bodies. As
a result, every other termite they contact, feed, or groom will also be
exposed to Termidor. All these termites will in turn transfer the
termiticide to still more termites. This will go on for several days,
allowing Termidor to be spread throughout the entire colony.
This unique
mode of action is known as the "Transfer Effect™". At the same time,
the active ingredient in Termidor, fipronil, is slow acting. That's a
very good thing for you, and a very bad thing for the Formosan colony.
Why? Because Termidor remains active long enough for one termite to
transfer the termiticide to a large number of other termites in the
colony before dying itself. And although the Termidor effect on
individual termites is intentionally slow, the overall colony impact is
fast: It can be 2-6 times faster than bait systems.
What to expect after application
Certainly,
every home is different, so the specifics of your Termidor treatment
and results will depend on your home's age, configuration,
construction, and level of infestation. Your Termidor Certified
Professional will explain the best procedure for your situation. The
entire application program is typically complete in a day or less;
however, you may see some evidence of termite activity for several days
afterward. That's okay. Rest assured that Termidor is working, and its
unique ingestion, contact, and "Transfer Effect"
will eliminate termites from your home. Remember, responsible termite
control demands periodic inspections by a licensed pest management
professional.
If you believe your home may be in danger form Formosan Subterranean Termites, contact a Termidor pest control professional now.
Termite Prevention Tips
When it
comes to gaining access to your home, termites are amazingly
proficient. The last thing you want to do is make their job easier.
Follow these 3 steps to effective Termite Defense and make sure that
your home doesn't become their home or contact a Termidor Certified
Professional immediately.
Step 1: Get professional help
Small holes in wood, crumbling drywall, sagging doors or
floors, insect wings, and small mud tubes are some of the more obvious
potential signs of termites. But even if you don't notice any of these
signs, that doesn't necessarily mean termites, or the conditions that
invite them, aren't there.
Regular inspections by a licensed pest
professional are the only way to ensure your home truly is, and
remains, free from termites and the damage that they cause. Qualified
pest professionals have the training in termite biology and behavior to
identify, prevent, and treat termite problems. A pest professional will
perform a thorough inspection of your home to determine if, where, and
how termites are getting in. They can also explain how to correct any
conditions in your home that invite termites.
For example:
-
Don't affix wooden trellises to exterior walls.
-
Keep mulch, wood debris, scrap lumber, sawdust, and firewood away
from your home. If you do keep firewood outside your house during the
winter, keep it raised off the ground.
-
Trim all shrubs, bushes and other dense greenery away from the
foundation of your home. Move mulch away from the foundation as well.
-
Don't bury wood debris near your home.
-
Remove infested trees and stumps.
-
Repair leaking faucets and water lines, both indoors and outdoors.
-
Fix leaky roofs and gutters.
-
Don't allow leaves to accumulate in gutters and drains.
-
Grade soil so that water (including air conditioning condensate) runs away from foundations.
-
Ventilate crawl spaces and attics to reduce humidity.
-
Cover at least 90% of the soil in crawl spaces with plastic sheeting.
-
Ideally, wood siding, stucco, and foam board should be at least six inches away from the ground.
-
Seal all cracks and holes in your home's foundation, which may provide a handy access point for termites.
Step 2: Employ the best defense: Termidor™
If the inspection reveals termites, your pest professional can
get rid of them and keep them from returning. If your home is currently
free of termites, congratulations! Now, it's time for your pest
professional to take preventative action to ensure it stays that way.
For the fastest, most effective way to address either situation, your
pest professional will recommend Termidor®, America's #1 Termite
Defense Product.
Step 3: Schedule regular professional check-ups
A clean bill of health from a doctor today doesn't mean it's not
important for you to get regular check-ups in the future. Your home
after a Termidor treatment is no different. Regular check-ups by your
pest professional will make sure Termidor continues to do its job, and
that your home remains termite-free for as long as you live there.
The Asian cockroach was identified as a newly introduced species to the United States in 1986 when a professional pest control operator collected these insects in Lakeland, Florida. He referred to them as German cockroaches, Blattella germanica (L.), but noted that their behavior was unlike any other German cockroaches that he had previously encountered. Upon further investigation the cockroaches were found to be B. asahinai, Asian cockroaches.
The German cockroach is the cockroach of concern, the species that gives all other cockroaches a bad name. It occurs in structures throughout Florida, and is the species that typically plagues multifamily dwellings. In Florida, the German cockroach may be confused with the Asian cockroach, Blattella asahinai Mizukubo. While these cockroaches are very similar, there are some differences that a practiced eye can discern. 
The origin of the oriental cockroach, Blatta orientalis Linnaeus, is uncertain, but it is thought to be from Africa or south Russia. It is a major household pest in parts of the northwest, mid-west, and southern United States. It is also sometimes referred to as the "black beetle" or a "water bug" because of its dark black appearance and tendency to harbor in damp locations. 
The Florida carpenter ant complex is comprised of several species, two of which are common around structures: Camponotus floridanus (Buckley) and Camponotus tortuganus (Emery). These bicolored arboreal ants are among the largest ants found in Florida, making them apparent as they forage or fly indoors and out. 
Over the last few years reports have escalated of a golden-brown to reddish-brown "crazy ant" infesting properties in and around West Palm Beach, Florida. Thick foraging trails with thousands of ants occur along sidewalks, around buildings, and on trees and shrubs. Pest control operators using liquid and/or granular broad-range insecticides appear unable to control this nuisance ant.
Prior to the advent of chlorinated hydrocarbons, organophosphates, and carbamates the little fire ant, Wasmannia auropunctata (Roger), was a problem in Florida. The use of persistent pesticide chemicals reduced the populations of the ants until they were no longer a menace. With the reduction in the use of these persistent pesticide chemicals populations of little fire ants have been allowed to increase, and in some areas, to develop into a serious problem. 
The
ant, Monomorium pharaonis (Linnaeus), is commonly known as the Pharaoh
ant. The name possibly arises from the mistaken tradition that it was
one of the plagues of ancient Egypt (Peacock et al. 1950). This ant is
distributed worldwide, is one of the more common household ants, and
carries the dubious distinction of being the most difficult household
ant to control.
The
European earwig, Forficula auricularia Linnaeus 1758, is intercepted in
Florida frequently in bundles of plants and shrubbery, in cut flowers,
and in florists' equipment arriving from the western United States.
This insect is spread largely by man. Spread by natural means is
limited because earwigs seldom fly and cannot maintain flight very
long. It has not yet become established in Florida, but it has the
potential to do so, at least in the northern part of the state. This
earwig was recorded first in the United States at Newport, Rhode Island
in 1911 (Jones 1917). Jones (1917) reported a small colony from
Seattle, Washington in 1915. Later evidence indicated that it first
invaded North America somewhere on the west coast in the early 1900s.
Eventually it became widespread in the New England and Middle Atlantic
states and throughout most of the western states, especially where
there is abundant rainfall or irrigation to provide moisture and food.
It became the dominant species of earwig in most of these areas.
The genus Zethus is in the subfamily Eumeninae, which contains the mason and potter wasps. However, many Zethus species typically make their nests in twigs and branches (Porter 1978) using old insect burrows, although ground nesting is also common.
Only two of the 16 Nearctic species of Vespula are known from Florida (Miller 1961). These are the two yellowjackets: eastern yellowjacket, V. maculifrons (Buysson), and the southern yellowjacket, V. squamosa (Drury). One species of Dolichovespula is also present: the baldfaced hornet, D. maculata (Linnaeus). The baldfaced hornet is actually a yellowjacket. It receives its common name of baldfaced from its largely black color but mostly white face, and that of hornet because of its large size and aerial nest. In general, the term "hornet" is used for species which nest above ground and the term "yellowjacket" for those which make subterranean nests. All species are social, living in colonies of hundreds to thousands of individuals.
